Frequently Asked Questions
For most people, printing is a whole new world full of unique terms, assumed restrictions, and rules that may seem a bit arbitrary.
Rest assured, printing - while unique unto itself - is not confusing, and all those terms, when understood, actually make a lot of sense.
Below is a list of some of the common questions we see. If you have any others, no worries! Feel free to ask - we are here to help.
General Questions
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Real Estate Printing
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Book Printing & Self Publishing
Q: What is a Print-Ready file? What is a Native File?
A print ready file is typically a PDF, but more importantly it displays the following attributes: The resolution is at 300dpi or greater, there is .125” bleed on all 4 sides, all fonts are outlined and embedded in the file, and any color is CMYK. We also recommend keeping any important elements - such as text - 1/16" away from the edge of the sheet. For help on how to generate a print-ready file, feel free to call or email us.
The Native File is the file in the original format that you designed it in. This is usually InDesign, Illustator or a program like it.
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Q: What resolution should I save my photos and graphics?
Always save your photos and graphics at 300dpi at the final size, if possible. Anything lower than that and they will turn out slightly fuzzy.
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Q: What are Bleeds and why are they important?
The bleed is printing that goes beyond the edge of where the sheet will be trimmed. This gives us a small amount of space to account for movement of the paper, movement while cutting, etc. so that no white is visible on the edge of the sheet when your project is complete. Industry standard - and incidentally our preference - is .125" on every side.
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Q: What is process color?
The most common method of achieving color in printing is referred to as CMYK, four–color process, 4/c process or even just process color. To reproduce a color image, a file is separated into four different colors: Cyan (C), Magenta (M), Yellow (Y) and Black (K). During separation, screen tints comprised of small dots are applied at different angles to each of the four colors. The screened separations are then transferred to four different printing plates, one for each color, and run on a printing press with one color overprinting the next. The composite image fools the naked eye with the illusion of continuous tone.
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Q: What are proofs and why should I look at one?
A printer’s proof is essentially a mock-up that serves to prove exactly what we, as the printer, plan on producing. It serves as a contract between us and you, our customer. There are 2 kinds of proofs – digital proofs and hard-copy proofs. Digital Proofs will usually take the form of a low resolution PDF; these are usually used to show in the most simplistic way what the final product will look like. A Hard-Copy Proof is typically a rough cut and unfinished version of exactly what your final product will look like. These are used when a project is complex, a question could arise without one, or when the color is critical. You should always look at your proof for 2 reasons: first, it tells you exactly what we will be producing, and second, it serves as a reference so we know what we are producing for you.
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Q: Why do the printed colors look different than my screen?
The reason your printed color looks different than the color of your monitor is because they are using two very different methods of displaying color. Your monitor is displaying light through a screen using the RGB Gamut. Printing is displaying color on a substrate with the use of pigments by way of the CMYK Gamut. RGB displays light and is therefore brighter and capable of far richer and brighter color. The only way to accurately illustrate the colors that will be printed is to have a color corrected monitor. This is why a hard copy proof is necessary when color is important.
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Q: Offset vs Digital?
The easiest way to view the difference between Offset and Digital is based on run length. Offset lends itself towards longer runs because of the incredible speeds offset presses are capable of. Further, the ink absorbs into the paper fibers which has a tendency to mute it sightly. Conversely, Digital is perfect for short run work because the first sheet off the press is usually ready to go. Again opposite of offset, digital toner is melted onto the surface of the paper; colors are therefore slightly more vibrant. Of course, these are very broad generalizations. The lines between offset and digital have blurred in the last few years. For more information feel free to reach out to us for a far more detailed explanation of the technology innate to both methods of printing.
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Q: What products do you specialize in?
We specialize in everything a Real Estate agent may need – flyers, brochures, business cards, postcards, signage, and notepads. Further, our in-house graphic design and mailing capabilities means we are the single source for all of a Real Estate agent’s marketing needs.
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Q: What is your standard turn-around?
For all digital work the standard turn-around is 2 days (plus 1 additional day if you opt for delivery). For offset work (think longer runs and usually less expensive), the standard turn-around is 3-5 days.
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Q: Can you design my print collateral?
Yes – we offer both full design services as well as flat-rate graphics design services.
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Q: What does “flat-rate design services” actually mean?
Flat-rate design services were created with efficiency, cost savings, and speed in mind. Essentially, any agent can pick a pre-existing template, forward over the pictures as well as the verbiage they’d like to use, and we will insert that information for a flat fee. Keep in mind these templates are not meant to be customized. For the generation of customized proprietary templates please contact us. We are happy to generate custom templates that would then qualify for future use of our flat rate services.
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Q: What does "Full Service Mailing" mean exactly?
Full service mailing encompasses the following services: Data processing of 1 mailing list ($25.00 for each additional list) with C.A.S.S. certified software (A CASS-certified address validation service will standardize your mailing list, update outdated addresses, and verify that addresses are valid and complete), update your list with N.C.O.A services, de-duplicate your list, presort your addresses, Inkjet the now sorted list onto your mailer, process all necessary Postal paperwork, and drop your mailing off at the Post Office.
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Q: What types of files should I upload?
You should always upload a print ready PDF. A print ready PDF is characterized by being the proper size, a high enough resolution (if there are photos), and by having the fonts embedded.
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Q: Do I need bleed for my book?
If you have copy, color, or any part of your book extending to the edge of the sheet, then yes, you will need to include bleeds. If no element of your books comes within 1/16” from the edge, then you do not need bleed. For a description of what bleeds are, click here.
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Q: How do I format my file for printing?
First, make sure your page size matches the finished size of your book (if there are no bleeds – if your book bleeds, add .125” on all sides). Second, you will need to double check your margins. Setting your margins is usually on the same menu as setting your page size. Margin size is purely preference; however, .5” is a great starting point.
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Q: Perfect Binding vs. Saddle-Stitch vs. Spiral Bind
Perfect binding is the method of binding used on most books you see at the bookstore. It is made by gluing the internals of the book to the spine of the cover. Saddle-stitch books are sheets that are folded, collated, then stapled together on the spine. Spiral binding is made by binding the book together with a plastic coil.
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Q: What is the difference between a UV coating and Lamination for my cover?
A UV coating is a liquid coating that hardens when exposed to UltraViolet light. A lamination is an adhesive film applied to the covers with heat and pressure. The question is, which one is better? There really isn’t an answer for that question, as they are different. So the easy differentiator: a UV coating will be less expensive but does not protect the cover quite as well as a lamination because the lamination is an actual film on top of the cover. However, the UV coating adds a very glossy and attractive embellishment to your cover, while the lamination is not quite as glossy.
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Q: How do I determine my page count?
Count up the pages of your book, the table of contents, and any other pages you may want in your book. Do not worry about the number of sheets – leave that to us!
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Q: How do I determine my spine width?
Determining the spine width is a simple equation. Simply take the number of pages in your book and divide it by the number of pages per inch for your stock choice then add some additional space for the cover. So, if you have a 200 page book, the pages per inch (ppi) is 400, and the extra space for your cover is .016", your thickness would look like this: 200 / 400 + .016" = 0.516"
We will include the thickness of the spine for your particular book options when we send you a quote!
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Q: Do you do custom sized books?
Q: Do you do hard-cover books?
Q: What is an ISBN and how do I get one?
An ISBN is an International Serial Book Number; an identifier that goes on every book sold. The only official provider of ISBNs in the United States is Bowker. If you plan on producing a softcover book, a hard cover book, and an eBook, then you would need 3 different ISBNs. So, if you plan on releasing multiple books or multiple editions of your book, we would recommend buying ISBNs in bulk (because the price for each ISBN goes down the more you buy). Once you have your ISBN, we will turn it into a barcode for you, but leave room for it on the back of your cover!
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